Rear-Fanged Venomous Snake

All species of hognoses are rear-fanged venomous snakes. This means that they secrete venom into their saliva, which is then transferred into the wound of their intended target to help begin digestion. To clarify, hognose venom is non-threatening to humans, however, it can still cause side effects such as redness, bruising, and/or slight swelling. It's important to keep in mind that even though the venom is non-threatening to humans, it's still a good idea to exercise caution and seek medical attention if needed.

Enclosure Size

The general rule of thumb when snake keeping is that the length of the enclosure is at least 2/3 the length of your snake. An adult hognose snake, depending on its sex, typically ranges from 14 to 36 inches. A 40-gallon enclosure (36x18x16) is recommended and can last them the rest of their life. If you have a juvenile (hatchling or yearling) western hognose, it is best to keep them in a 10-gallon enclosure (20x10x12). Smaller enclosures for juvenile snakes help them feel more secure and find resources such as their water and food more easily.

Substrate

Most western hognose owners keep their snake on a thick layer of aspen (around 3 inches) for many reasons. Aspen is one of the most used substrates for non-tropical species of snakes because it encourages burrowing behavior, holds its shape for den building, is not harmful to the snake's respiratory system, and can be easily spot-cleaned when needed.

If you are looking for a more natural-looking setup for your snake, another option for western hognoses is combining a mixture of 60% soil and 40% play sand. This mixture will also encourage natural burrowing behaviors, holds its shape for den building, and is not harmful to the snake's respiratory system. However, it is important to make sure the mixture does not get too damp to prevent scale rot.

Temperature & Humidity

The hot side of a western hognose's enclosure should maintain around 85° F to ensure a proper basking spot and natural temperature gradient. On the other side of the enclosure, the temperature should naturally drop down to around 75° F. In addition, a proper-sized water bowl should easily maintain their needed humidity at around 30% - 50%.

Diet

In the wild a western hognose eats a combination of amphibians, lizards, and mice; with a favoritism of amphibians. Because of their natural diet, it can be hard to get some captive-bred hognoses to eat mice. Many owners choose to buy frog links or scent the mice with frog juice and slowly transfer them to regular mice.

Snakes should either be tong fed, their meal be placed on top of a hide or placed on top of a plastic lid to prevent them from ingesting their substrate. Ingesting substrate may cause the animal impaction in their digestive tract.

Western Hognose Age Guide

  • Hatchling

    When reptiles hatch out of their eggs, they are immediately considered a hatchling. Western hognose hatchlings can range anywhere from 5-9 inches and weigh 2-4 grams. In addition, these baby snakes typically shed within the first 24 hours of hatching instead of sometime after their first meal.

  • Yearling

    Once a reptile reaches a year old, they are considered a yearling. At this age, male and female hognoses will begin to vary in size. Male hognoses of this age typically range from 9-13 inches and weigh around 20-40 grams. Female hognoses of this age typically range from 10-15 inches and weigh around 30-60 grams.

  • Adult

    After two years, western hognoses reach sexual maturity and are considered adults. When holding an adult hognose, it should be relatively easy to tell if they are male or female by size alone. Male hognoses of this age typically range from 14-24 inches and weigh around 60-120 grams. In contrast, female hognoses of this age typically range from 28-36 inches and weigh around 200-400 grams.

  • Senior

    While reptiles do not show significant signs of aging, when they reach the last 5-7 years of their life you might start to notice signs of them starting to slow down. These signs may include slower reflexes, less general activity, and choosing to stay on the hot side of their enclosure more than they used to. This may result in choosing not to eat as often as well. It is important to monitor the habits of your reptile as they age.

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